MEA SHE'ARIM - A PASSAGE IN TIME
- Simon Beni
- Mar 31
- 8 min read
Updated: 4 days ago
A visit to the Mea She'arim neighborhood in Jerusalem is a unique experience, leaving a lasting impression. Established in the mid-19th century outside the Old City walls, it was created to accommodate the growing Jewish population and has since become a cultural hub for the ultra-Orthodox Jewish community. Mea She'arim now includes the original streets and newer neighborhoods, all rich in Orthodox Jewish culture.
The area features traditional architecture with stone facades, contrasting with modern buildings nearby. Walking through its narrow alleys evokes Eastern European Jewish life, with the sounds of children, families, and prayers creating a lively and spiritual atmosphere. The bustling pathways are lined with shops offering fresh produce and traditional delicacies. The tightly knit community, with large families living in close quarters, adds to the dynamic and energetic environment.
Visitors to Mea She'arim are encouraged to respect the customs and traditions of the residents, as the neighborhood is a bastion of Orthodox Jewish culture. Modesty in dress is particularly important, and visitors should be mindful of the local customs to ensure a respectful interaction with the community. In summary, a visit to Mea She'arim offers not just a glimpse into a unique cultural enclave but also an opportunity to experience the enduring spirit of a community that has maintained its traditions amidst the modernity of Jerusalem. The blend of historical architecture, vibrant community life, and rich cultural practices makes this neighborhood a remarkable destination for anyone interested in understanding the complexities and beauty of Jewish heritage in Israel.
As a photographer, the setting is ideal, offering a dynamic canvas with actors moving in and out of the frame, contributing to a rich tapestry of life. The streets buzz with energy, revealing new opportunities for capturing spontaneous stories. The interplay of light and shadow enhances the visual narrative.
Daily activities, from commuters to leisurely strollers, evoke nostalgia and beauty for those who see art in the mundane. This vibrant atmosphere recalls a bygone era of reflection and appreciation. The intricate architecture, reminiscent of M.C. Escher's sketches, features twisting stairways that create optical illusions and invite contemplation.
Scenes reminiscent of "A Fiddler on the Roof" are common here, unlike the bustling city center nearby. The community essence is palpable, with echoes of violins, children's laughter, and spirited conversations. This cultural landscape is steeped in tradition, where stories are passed down through generations. Each photograph captures not just a moment but a celebration of the human experience, filled with emotion and the simple joys that make life extraordinary.
OLD TRADTIONS
The ultra-Orthodox community, or Haredi Jews, is dedicated to preserving its traditional lifestyle, governed by strict religious codes, to shield members from secular influences. Modern technologies like television, smartphones, and the internet are seen as threats to their values. Community leaders are concerned about the impact of modernity on their religious and cultural identity in a globalized world. Despite efforts to resist, modernization is gradually infiltrating even insular communities, creating tension between liberal and conservative factions. This dynamic is evident in changes in fashion and behavior, with some women adopting more conservative dress, while others wear stylish wigs, blending tradition with modern fashion. This duality underscores the complexity of balancing tradition and modernity. The community questions whether change is always beneficial, as modernization can lead to progress but also the loss of cherished traditions. Many reflect nostalgically on simpler times.
This yearning for the "olden days" serves as a reminder of the importance of balance—between embracing the new and honoring the old. Ultimately, the dialogue between tradition and modernity is an ongoing narrative that shapes the identity of communities, influencing their evolution while also prompting them to reconsider what aspects of their heritage are worth preserving in the face of inevitable change.
At the entrance to the neighborhood there are big signs asking people to respect the codes and dress appropriately and those who want to visit must dress in a modest manner; head cover long sleeved shirt and dress for women.
Some residents strongly refuse to speak modern Hebrew because they claim Hebrew is a sacred language,
and therefore they speak mainly Yiddish - the language spoken by Jews in Eastern Europe for generations.
Another aspect is whether to be a citizen of the state of Israel and be faithful to its symbols and abiding the laws of the Israeli state which some believe is heresy, or to follow only - the law of the Torah – Halacha, and take orders from the religious leaders. That is the reason sometime you will find graffiti signs against the Zionist state, and the extreme ones even fly the flag of Palestine in order to show their resent for the state of Israel.
A visit to this neighborhood is definitely an anthropological experience, rich with cultural insights and social dynamics, but beware of labels and stigmas that can cloud your perception. This area is a tapestry of diverse backgrounds, lifestyles, and beliefs, where each person has a story to tell, and each corner holds a unique cultural significance. Engaging with the local community allows one to witness the intricate ways in which traditions are maintained and adapted over time. However, it is crucial to approach this exploration with an open mind, free from preconceived notions that can lead to misunderstanding and misrepresentation.
My worldview is that everyone should live according to their own choices and beliefs, which resonates with the saying in Hebrew, "a righteous man in his faith will live." This philosophy emphasizes the importance of personal freedom and the right to self-determination. It encourages individuals to pursue their passions and beliefs, as long as their actions do not inflict harm upon others. This principle of coexistence is vital in fostering a community where diverse perspectives can thrive, and dialogue can flourish. In a world often divided by differences, embracing this mindset can lead to deeper connections and understanding among people from various walks of life.
Through my many visits to this neighborhood, I have learned not to be judgmental; on the contrary, I actively seek the positive sides in every person I meet. Each encounter is an opportunity to discover the richness of human experience, and I strive to appreciate the unique qualities that each individual brings to the table. This approach not only enhances my understanding of the community but also enriches my own life. I have found that by focusing on the strengths and virtues of others, I cultivate a more harmonious and enriching environment for everyone involved.
The energy I pass to the people I meet opens doors and hearts as well. It is remarkable how a simple smile or a warm greeting can break down barriers and foster genuine connections. When I approach others with positivity and an eagerness to engage, I find that they are often receptive and willing to share their experiences and perspectives. This exchange of energy creates a ripple effect, encouraging others to open up and embrace the beauty of human interaction. It is this shared humanity that ultimately strengthens the bonds within the community and encourages a sense of belonging.
It takes a bit of CHUTZSPAH, or daring, to interact with the locals, but with the right approach—a smile, some friendly banter, and perhaps a sprinkle of Yiddish slang—very interesting encounters occur. These interactions can lead to unexpected friendships and deep conversations that transcend cultural boundaries. As a result, I have sometimes been invited into homes, where I have experienced the warmth of local hospitality firsthand.
Many people from the "other side" are eager to connect with their "lost brothers," showing a shared curiosity and desire for connection that transcends differences.
Happiness is not about material possessions but the richness of relationships and everyday joy. Seeing children play, siblings caring for each other, and families enjoying time together highlights strong community ties. There's a warmth and sense of belonging often missing in materialistic environments. These connections and moments of joy remind us that true wealth lies in love and laughter with friends and family, and happiness is found in simple experiences.
For generations, information similar to a Facebook "feed" has been displayed on white plaques on neighborhood walls. Groups of men often gather to read these "Pashquil," which convey dramatic news about events, politics, and anonymous criticism. Interestingly, "Pasquino" is a statue in Rome where people post anonymous messages, offering insight into the neighborhood's pulse.
PHOTOGRAPHY GUIDE
As part of my role as a photography guide, I often find myself venturing into the neighborhood accompanied by a diverse group of fellow photographers. Together, we explore the art of capturing moments, and I take the opportunity to emphasize to everyone that with the right approach and a genuine attitude, it is possible to connect with almost anyone and everyone in the community, fostering an atmosphere of mutual respect and understanding. This principle is especially significant in our increasingly interconnected world, where communication and empathy can bridge cultural divides.
One evening before Hanukkah, we photographed a family lighting candles in their window. The candlelight created a perfect backdrop. The homeowner, Pinchas, invited us inside to celebrate Hanukkah, showcasing the connection photography can foster.
Inside, Pinchas warmly welcomed us and said, "I invited you to show that what's said about us in Tel Aviv isn't true." His words highlighted the misunderstandings between communities and the importance of personal interaction in dispelling myths and building bridges.
Since that evening, Pinchas and I have maintained a close friendship for eight years, marked by engaging and thought-provoking conversations that span a wide range of topics. Our discussions have delved into cultural identity, the significance of traditions, and the shared human experiences that unite us all, regardless of our backgrounds. This ongoing dialogue has not only enriched my understanding of his perspective but has also enhanced my approach to teaching photography, as I strive to instill in my students the value of connection and empathy through the lens of their cameras. Each photograph we take is not just an image; it is a story waiting to be told, a moment waiting to be shared, and a bridge waiting to be built between diverse communities.
PURIM IN MEA SHE'ARIM
My favorite day of the year is of course Purim – the Jewish equivalent to Halloween, It is amazing to see the beautiful costumes which most of them where done handmade with all a lot of care. in the bible it is said that people should celebrate and be merry “ad lo yada” – until you get wasted… from drinking wine. The atmosphere is like a South American carnival, on that day many forbidden things are done, it is a day where it is allowed to behave silly.
My friend Pinchas invites me every year to his table with his family.
a very good opportunity to take pictures of the entire family.
Another thing, which I love, is to go on Fridays, a day when everyone is preparing themselves for the Shabbat feast, a time that is not just about the meal but also about the atmosphere of community and tradition. On this day, the hustle and bustle of the week gives way to a sense of anticipation and joy. Families are busy cleaning their homes, setting the table, and preparing their hearts for the special time ahead.
There is the smell of cooking in the air, as the aroma of various dishes wafts through the streets. Lots of bakeries sell delicious pastries, each one crafted with care and tradition. The enticing scent of fresh bread mingles with the savory notes of Gefilte fish, a traditional dish made from fish that is often served as an appetizer. Additionally, the rich, hearty Cholent—a meat and bean stew that simmers slowly to perfection—fills the air with its comforting fragrance. However, the true star of a Shabbat feast is undoubtedly the sweet bread known as Challah. This braided bread, often adorned with a golden crust, symbolizes the special nature of the day and is a centerpiece on many tables, enjoyed by all who gather.
A very good line in Yiddish to start and end a conversation is: "Zei Gezunt" - be healthy. This phrase carries with it a warmth and sincerity, reflecting the cultural emphasis on well-being and connection among friends and family. It can be used in various contexts, whether you are greeting someone or bidding them farewell. So that’s it for now, time to say goodbye, and as I part ways, I often say, Zei Gezunt. It is a simple yet profound way to express care for the other person's health and happiness.
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